Kim Young-mo's delicious journey with bread

By Han Sang-hee

The hottest TV drama these days is not about doll-faced actors tangled up in a love triangle, but involves a determined young fellow who dreams of becoming the best baker in Korea. The KBS television series "Bread, Love and Dreams" is leading the drama scene, and it's not just the actors and storyline that is attracting viewers, but the gorgeous bread and cakes that fill the screen as well.

Surrounded by the tall shiny buildings and apartments of Dogok-dong, southern Seoul, there is a small yet fancy bakery called "Kim Young-mo et Fils". First opened in 2000, it is one of the most famous bakeries in the area and is owned by baker and pastry chef Kim Young-mo himself, whose life and work is known to have inspired the popular drama.

The boy with a big dream

Even before walking into the bakery, one can smell the delightful aroma of freshly baked bread, sandwiches, baguettes, pies to croissants and cakes. Servers are busily tending to the customers, adding more bread to empty baskets, explaining the ingredients and cutting up some of the goods for visitors to sample.

Among them, a tall man wearing a crisp white baker's apron and a big smile interacts with the customers: He is one of the reasons why so many people from near and far come to the small shop.

For the 57-year-old Kim, his bakery is more than just about bread, it's the result of a passionate dedication over his whole life and something he sees as a future for aspiring bakers in Korea.

"Baking is my life. It was destiny", he said during an interview with The Korea Times, Tuesday, at Pere et Fils, a café owned by Kim located across from the bakery.

Growing up in a poor household, Kim lived with his father after his parents divorced when he was a baby. Living with his father was difficult, and he seldom remembers times when he ate as much as he wished.

The very first memory for him of encountering his lifelong career dream was when he was an elementary student. He would stop before a small bakery in front of his school every day and watch people go in, purchase bread and leave. He did this for at least six months every day.

"Of course, I didn't have the money to buy bread for myself, but I forgot my hunger by just smelling the wonderful scent wafting from the bakery", he said.

Determined to put his life on the right track, the young Kim worked hard at a small bakery as an assistant _ washing dishes, cleaning the kitchen, coming in early and leaving late ― and finally opened his first bakery in 1982.

"It was on May 18. I remember I was smiling, but was actually crying inside", he recalled, his eyes twinkling.

"I'm a very future-oriented and adventurous person. I cried inside not just because I was happy to start my own bakery, but because I was overwhelmed about the future plans I set out for me and my shop. I had already made a blueprint in my mind, and I think I have accomplished most of the plans", he said, pointing to his store which was fully packed with customers.

The art of baking

When the master went to Paris to study as an aspiring baker, he was mesmerized by one particular shop near his hotel. He had to travel three times from Korea back to Paris to meet the owner-chef, who finally agreed to meet the determined and persistent baker from the little-known Asian country. After studying the basics, Kim returned home with hopes of finally becoming a true chef, but failed miserably.

"Bread is like wine. Natural fermentation was what we needed and that is what we introduced to the baking scene for the very first time in Korea", Kim said, explaining that not only the technique but also the ingredients are of utmost importance.

Kim uses the best of the best, including organic grains and flour from local farms and Valrhona chocolates that are flown in from Paris.

"The better the ingredients in terms of quality, the harder it is to work with them. Many bakeries started to use organic wheat, but it's very hard to create recipes with it. We are actually doing pretty well, and our customers have noticed the difference".

According to Kim, Korea is now on top both in terms of skills and techniques in the baking scene, and for someone who has been in the business for more than 30 years, it is now time to come up with something original and unique. Introducing something new cannot happen without understanding the recent trends, and Kim has been doing his share of trend-searching through magazines from Japan, France, the United States and Korea.

"I'm working on ways to bring more traditional recipes. It's all about Korean recipes, ingredients and ideas now. We need to make Korean products. Many aspiring bakers go to Japan to learn their trade, but that's just learning Japanese baking. I think young bakers should learn the basics and the history of baking from places like France and then come back to Korea and come up with their own original ideas", he said.



More than tasty bread

Watching Kim talk about bread is mouthwatering, as he describes every little detail in such an earnest manner, and his voice became stern when he started to talk about the most important ingredient in bread making and also his life.

"Working from the heart is what has led me this far. If a baker is reluctant when making his bread, it shows. It doesn't even take a minute to figure out if this person made his bread with his heart. Like I always say, I allow mistakes, but I don't allow dishonesty", he said.

Walking up to the second floor to the factory, fellow bakers and assistants say hello with radiant smiles, while Kim jokes and pats them on the back.

"There are many bakers who started with me ever since they were young boys. Some have been working with me for 20 years, so I feel like I am working with a family now.

Compared to the 1970s and the '80s when only the rich kids got their hands on sweet and delicate breads or pastries, Korea is now infatuated with numerous franchised bakeries and cafes. Kim currently runs only four shops, despite ongoing requests for more openings around Seoul, but the baker insists on keeping his business small and organized.
"I'm not interested in making money. Having only a small number of shops enables me to check on almost everything about them, from the bread, the people who work with me and also the customers. I can't risk my future over money", said Kim, who was recognized as a master technician by the government in 2007.

When asked if he thought he was successful, Kim pondered for a moment and asked back "What is success?"

"For me, success is achieving the abilities that you are good at. If I didn't discover and work on my baking skills, I wouldn't be here as an owner of a bakery.

From time to time, customers pass by and give him a thankful nod or just a hello, and whenever they did so, Kim responded with a big smile.

"It's my favorite moment of the day. Whenever customers ― old or young ― come up to me and say hello and thank me, I feel so happy", he said.

"It's why I continue to do this job and why I will do it for the rest of my life".

Kim's shops are located in Dogok-dong, Seocho-dong, Yeoksam-dong and Banpo-dong. For more information, visit www.k-bread.com.

For the 57-year-old Kim, his bakery is more than just about bread, it's the result of a passionate dedication over his whole life and something he sees as a future for aspiring bakers in Korea.

"Baking is my life. It was destiny", he said during an interview with The Korea Times, Tuesday, at Pere et Fils, a café owned by Kim located across from the bakery.

Growing up in a poor household, Kim lived with his father after his parents divorced when he was a baby. Living with his father was difficult, and he seldom remembers times when he ate as much as he wished.

The very first memory for him of encountering his lifelong career dream was when he was an elementary student. He would stop before a small bakery in front of his school every day and watch people go in, purchase bread and leave. He did this for at least six months every day.

"Of course, I didn't have the money to buy bread for myself, but I forgot my hunger by just smelling the wonderful scent wafting from the bakery", he said.

Determined to put his life on the right track, the young Kim worked hard at a small bakery as an assistant _ washing dishes, cleaning the kitchen, coming in early and leaving late ― and finally opened his first bakery in 1982.

"It was on May 18. I remember I was smiling, but was actually crying inside", he recalled, his eyes twinkling.

"I'm a very future-oriented and adventurous person. I cried inside not just because I was happy to start my own bakery, but because I was overwhelmed about the future plans I set out for me and my shop. I had already made a blueprint in my mind, and I think I have accomplished most of the plans", he said, pointing to his store which was fully packed with customers.

The art of baking
When the master went to Paris to study as an aspiring baker, he was mesmerized by one particular shop near his hotel. He had to travel three times from Korea back to Paris to meet the owner-chef, who finally agreed to meet the determined and persistent baker from the little-known Asian country. After studying the basics, Kim returned home with hopes of finally becoming a true chef, but failed miserably.

"Bread is like wine. Natural fermentation was what we needed and that is what we introduced to the baking scene for the very first time in Korea", Kim said, explaining that not only the technique but also the ingredients are of utmost importance.

Kim uses the best of the best, including organic grains and flour from local farms and Valrhona chocolates that are flown in from Paris.

"The better the ingredients in terms of quality, the harder it is to work with them. Many bakeries started to use organic wheat, but it's very hard to create recipes with it. We are actually doing pretty well, and our customers have noticed the difference".

According to Kim, Korea is now on top both in terms of skills and techniques in the baking scene, and for someone who has been in the business for more than 30 years, it is now time to come up with something original and unique. Introducing something new cannot happen without understanding the recent trends, and Kim has been doing his share of trend-searching through magazines from Japan, France, the United States and Korea.

"I'm working on ways to bring more traditional recipes. It's all about Korean recipes, ingredients and ideas now. We need to make Korean products. Many aspiring bakers go to Japan to learn their trade, but that's just learning Japanese baking. I think young bakers should learn the basics and the history of baking from places like France and then come back to Korea and come up with their own original ideas", he said.

More than tasty bread

Watching Kim talk about bread is mouthwatering, as he describes every little detail in such an earnest manner, and his voice became stern when he started to talk about the most important ingredient in bread making and also his life.

"Working from the heart is what has led me this far. If a baker is reluctant when making his bread, it shows. It doesn't even take a minute to figure out if this person made his bread with his heart. Like I always say, I allow mistakes, but I don't allow dishonesty", he said.

Walking up to the second floor to the factory, fellow bakers and assistants say hello with radiant smiles, while Kim jokes and pats them on the back.

"There are many bakers who started with me ever since they were young boys. Some have been working with me for 20 years, so I feel like I am working with a family now.

Compared to the 1970s and the '80s when only the rich kids got their hands on sweet and delicate breads or pastries, Korea is now infatuated with numerous franchised bakeries and cafes. Kim currently runs only four shops, despite ongoing requests for more openings around Seoul, but the baker insists on keeping his business small and organized.
"I'm not interested in making money. Having only a small number of shops enables me to check on almost everything about them, from the bread, the people who work with me and also the customers. I can't risk my future over money", said Kim, who was recognized as a master technician by the government in 2007.

When asked if he thought he was successful, Kim pondered for a moment and asked back "What is success?"

"For me, success is achieving the abilities that you are good at. If I didn't discover and work on my baking skills, I wouldn't be here as an owner of a bakery.

From time to time, customers pass by and give him a thankful nod or just a hello, and whenever they did so, Kim responded with a big smile.

"It's my favorite moment of the day. Whenever customers ― old or young ― come up to me and say hello and thank me, I feel so happy", he said.

"It's why I continue to do this job and why I will do it for the rest of my life".

Kim's shops are located in Dogok-dong, Seocho-dong, Yeoksam-dong and Banpo-dong. For more information, visit http://www.k-bread.com .

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