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[HanCinema's Korea Diaries] "Andong" June 28th-30th

As the center of intangible cultural heritage in South Korea, on paper Andong seems like a great place to visit. In practice, though, the problem with intangible cultural heritage is that, by definition, you can't really look at it. Unless there's a festival going on there's very little to do. Or maybe it just seemed that way because of the freakishly hot weather...in any case, most of the old stuff is far off from the main town. In the city center, all there is to settle for is Yeonggahyeon (영가헌), an old government office largely identical to most of the reconstructed government offices in this country, just smaller than average.

The nice people at the train station, at least, have a decent sense of style. These aren't riding trains, but personal quarters for Korail employees who are stuck in Andong overnight. Or maybe they just want a shower or a place to rest. From left to right- a party game at festivals, a noblewoman being greeted, and a visual representation of the Andong Mask Dance Festival.

...Which is not happening right now, but in early October. Starts on September 30th, to be specific. But go the stadium area right now and all you'll see is large mask sculptures like this in a huge quiet plaza.

The main thing that can easily be seen right this minute is the common Andong cityscape. Which isn't bad, by any means. I like how for once the giant apartment building sticks out instead of just being one of several identical structures.

Close to where I took the cityscape picture is Seo-ak temple (서악서). This is just another random temple, where the only unique standout quality was this odd little sculpture that as usual depicts a mythological Buddhist figure I am not familiar with. I really need to try and study this stuff, although I'm not sure it would help. I can't tell the difference between Matthew, Mark, Luke and John either.

Now, for these my ignorance has a better excuse. These are just random murals on the walls a little to the west of Andong Station (안동역). That's the one with trains- be warned that the bus terminal is kind of in the middle of nowhere. My guess is they're based on either realist paintings or old black and white photographs.

Now, I mentioned that Andong is a tad boring when there aren't any events going on. But there was in fact one such event going on during my visit- the Andong Cup International Bowling Tournament (안동 코리어 국제볼링대회)!

...Which was pretty much like any crowded bowling alley except that the players were wearing uniforms, score was being kept, and everyone was unusually very good. "International" title notwithstanding I did not notice any foreigners in attendance. If you happen to be a hot shot bowler who lives in South Korea, though, by all means try to get in touch. I'm sure they'd love to have an actual foreign team in competition.

Lastly, Andong as a location is well-reknowned for its food culture, and if traveling in a group, it is essential that you try the local specialty, Andong Steamed Chicken (안동찜닭). It's pretty much exactly what it sounds like- delicious chicken suffocated by a lovely mix of vegetables and spices. You'll have to bring friends, though, because it can only be prepared in reasonably large quantities. There's an entire street of restaurants dedicated to serving this dish alone- that's how popular it is. The name of the place is Andong Steamed Chicken Alley (안동찜닭골목). It's a standard large covered market a little to the northwest of Andong Station.

So even when life is not lively, traveling can still be decently fun. Just make sure to enjoy the little things.

Article by William Schwartz

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